TheBreck - Recently Updated Pages

Ready-Made Excuses

silveryfox — Tue, 26 Jul 2011 05:38:57 CDT

I'm scared of feral children.
I haven't got my proper boots on.
I haven't got my bouldering mat.
My back's too long.
My yellow streak is longer than my reach.
There's broken glass everywhere and, as all primary school teachers know, broken glass is an instrument of satan; to touch it brings instant and fatal exsanguination.
There's too much soot/dust/chalk/sweat/glass/blood/random body parts on the holds.
I got mugged by a load of thirteen year old girls so I'm frightened of coming here on my own.
It's too "urban".
The graffiti intrudes upon my romantic sensibilities.
I'm scared of Big Prawn.

... but the rarest of them all...

I'm crap and my fingers are too weak!

Who Wall. 6a.

Other Bouldering Venues in Wirral

amyclimbsagain — Thu, 23 Jun 2011 05:56:34 CDT

Note to Contributors
(April 2010)

The table below is slowly being updated. Text which needs work has been left in white. Updated text is grey. If you edit this page, please use the same formatting. Cheers. SIlveryFox

New crag info posted below and on various sections under this title. If you do any new problems, please, just write them up here (I'd prefer the latter as it saves me work) and make sure there is a description or diagram/topo.

COME ON FOLKS- GET GOING- TOPOS POSTED BELOW, WHERE AVAILABLE, ALONG WITH DETAILED ACCESS INFORMATION, BUT I CAN'T DO THEM ALL ON MY OWN!!!!

As a result of momentum created by the forthcoming guidebook publication, research has been carried out and several new venues have been discovered. The most recent has been a Breck-style quarry (but easier) in parkland, only a few miles from Birkenhead. There are also plans to develop six bouldering circuits for a wide range of abilities, in six separate areas.

Watch This Space

Crag Rating System
***	Some good quality rock; some brushing/gardening may be required. GO CLIMB IT NOW!!!
**	Some variable quality rock; may need a lot of cleaning or imagination to realise the potential; in need of a very keen and desperate local activist; if it was Dahn Sarf it'd be covered in routes.
*	Ummm, well, there's rock here but unrealistic for climbing (e.g. Too small; too loose; too soft; no access; filled-in quarry; continually seeps etc).
	Ideal for young climbers; short or very short climbs or problems; easy or very easy climbing; good landings; easy access.
	B-i-g problems or nasty landings and high levels of objective danger.
	Small problems/routes with mostly sitting starts
X	No rock - I've saved you the bother of going there yourself.
Note: Inclusion of a crag on this list does not imply that a right of access exists. Some of these are on public land but some are not. Many are in urban areas. Climbing on some of these outcrops will probably attract unwanted attention, for example from an RSSPB Nazi who patrols the tops of Burton Point cliffs, screaming at anyone who comes within fifty metres of the rock, and in the process scaring the birds away!

Irby Quarry

(Click here for a map)

Anyone fancy developing some problems and writing up the routes?

See UKC site (managed by Nolo) for the beginnings of a topo.

***

Heswall Dales
Heswall

(Click here for a map)

Longish routes on some soft and friable rock but the access is sensitive. Soloing looks scary. But the rock is very impressive-looking and could be excellent. There is some evidence of climbing here including ironmongery and chipped holds.

***

Thor's Stone

Thurstaston

Full details have now been given in a subsection of this page.

A good variety of problems for all the family

***

The Dungeon
Heswall

(Click the Grid Ref for a Map SJ251831)

Natural sandstone used extensively for fires, courting and practising the art of cave scratchings though sadly the standard seems to have regressed somewhat since the neolithic. There is an overhanging outcrop which continues to the right (facing in) over broken rocks with great scrambling for tots, towards a medium sized slabby outcrop with a number of possibilities.

One part is fiercely overhanging, has nasty landings and may be friable in parts, although it does boast beautiful erosion pockets (see photo) above the overhang and has several good looking lines.

***

Neston Cuttings
Neston

(Click the Grid Ref for a Map SJ302774)

These are the old railway cuttings of the former Birkenhead Railway route from Hooton to West Kirby. It is now the Wirral Way, a walk/cycle/horse path. To find the climbing areas access either at Hadlow Station in Willaston then walk up towards Neston, or at Station Road/Mellock Lane Neston then head back towards Willaston. You'll see blue signs pointing to the Wirral Way.

Been here, done some routes, needs gardening and brushing as tops can be a little friable- a monster traverse of about 200m is possible! Top roping and abseiling possible from the numerous trees. No access issues. Get going before they all get done!

There is quite a lot of vegetation and it can be quite damp but there are usually several dry areas. Some places are quite high so it could be worth taking a bouldering mat (also look out for horse dung!!)

***

Hilbre Island (SSSI)
West Kirby

(Click here for a map)

This picture probably speaks for itself! The Wirral equivalent of Gogarth! This photo is of one of the more rotten areas of sandstone, which tend to be restricted to the upper layers of Little Eye and Hilbre. The lower layers on the Southwest facing cliffs seem better, along with the areas on the Northeast facing cliffs although these can seep for prolonged periods and they are all quite short.

Apart from the issue of rock quality, it is surrounded by SSSIs, the access is entirely tidal (see location name!) and the island(s) are of major global ecological importance for migrating waders and other birds.

Might be better to leave it alone, but if you decide to climb here liaise with the ranger on the island (see Hilbre's website!).

Actually, the climbing here's great but prob better to stick to Little Hilbre, although there is plenty of rock on the main island too. Just watch the tops as, like in many places on Wirral, the top two metres of Sandstone is broken, friable and soft... here it seems to matter much more!

***/**

HardCore

Bidston

The next few sections are grouped around Bidston and are given in Brown text. The best venue so far is Boundary Road, which appears first in the list below. After this are several venues where possibilities abound. These crags might be best used by adopting guerrilla-style tactics- small numbers, outside office-hours, and killing people who you don't agree with.There are so many micro-crags and cragettes scattered across Bidston Hill, this would make a great little circuit venue. Some routes have been recorded but we really need a few dry weeks and a small team of local miscreants to get cracking.

The main issue here is probably that the venues could be quite public and they get used by locals for the usual activities- grafitti, under-age drinking, smoking 'biftas', and adolescent fumblings. However, I really need some help to develop these locations. They are, in no particular order...

(See also Lennox Lane below)

Boundary Road
Bidston

(SJ286902)

Loads of rock, both quarried and natural. Some of it will need a good garden though a lot of it will only need a brush. The quarried sections line the road, they're quite high (6m), no access probs and have dozens of routes. The natural outcrops are found by walking North West from the top of the cutting on Boundary Road- consult an OS map to see the outcrops; with sitting starts these would be good problems.

Probably one of the best local venues. Update (Autumn 2009)- Wardens respond to complaints from locals about roguish types 'climbing' on the walls and have asked people to leave, citing council 'bylaws' that cannot be found on a trawl of WBC's website and council archives- your guess is as good as mine! Therefore, evenings, early mornings, and weekends may be the best time for unmolested climbing.

The photo below is an extract from the topo which is in progress. When it has been posted go forth and climb, but PLEASE make sure you write the routes up here.

***

Flaybrick Memorial Gardens
Bidston

(SJ293895)

Several possibilities here, closed from "dusk till dawn" unless you bring your own garlic and stakes (or you know the various other ways in!).

Care for some music while you read?

The link to the map above shows a wavy black line just beneath the red circle- this is probably the crag. It comprises a vertical wall of quarried sandstone about 3-4m high with varying amounts of ivy covering the rock at intervals. The length of the outcrop is about 150m (!) so there has got to be scope for climbing here.

Some of the areas are a little overgrown however, and due sensitivity might be wise in an area frequented by dog walkers and those remembering the departed.

It's a difficult one- we know we cause hardly any damage, in fact quite the opposite in an area festooned with litter of all kinds, so maybe it's up to the individual to be considerate and set a good example?

That is quite a lot of ivy to remove- perhaps the way forward is to use Great Escape Tactics- i.e. little and often... but not too often.

"... in an instant all was dark!
And scarcely had he Maggie rallied,
When out the hellish legion sallied,
As bees bizz out with angry zest,
When thieving hands assail their nest,
As eager runs the market crowd,
when "catch the Thief" resounds aloud,
So Maggie runs, the witches follow,
With many an icy screech and holler."

Apologies to Burns.

And then down at the bottom of the gardens, on the way to the Nanny Goats (see later section) one comes across another outcrop, part of which appears to be natural (see aerial view/map)

It may not look much but that face is 4m high- it would take very little effort to clean several problems here. The rhododendron could be a temporary feature and the rest is easily brushable. Apart from this vertical face, there are easier routes round to the left, some of which are already used by local youngsters.

***

Nanny Goat Mountains
Bidston

(Click the Grid Ref for a map SJ292898)

The photo on the left doesn't really do it justice. The highest face is about 3m and is quite steep- its hard to make out from the photo, but this is a shot of essentially the inside of an L shape. The left hand section is easy angled- enough for even the youngest scrambler, the right is quite steep and with very small holds.

Some more rock, some easy angled with big holds, some short and steep with small crimps, plus overhangs for sit-down starts.

Whilst some of the climbing would suit the younger enthusiasts as well as the stronger or more experienced, the venue might not at the moment. The council might be interested in focusing attention on cleaning the area up as it could be really nice- it just needs few people to take an interest...

***

Boundary Wood ***
(SJ287902)

The map shows a crag at this location supported by 3 x 5m contours, indicating there should be something with a 10m vertical face. Whilst it hasn't been possible to locate this gem, there is much exposed rock here forming two sides of a cutting with steps and level changes with faces up to 2m in height. However, the ground seeps considerably and is also overgrown with rhododendrons so cleaning would be a major task.

Further along the 25m contour there appears to be a longer outcrop. Inspection has revealed that this is a great little outcrop of natural and steeply bulging sandstone with problems that are too hard for me at the moment. Anyone?

Recent excavation in this woodland has revealed tunnels in the rock, although these have been a part of local folklore for many years- it is said that these were used as wartime munitions dumps, or possibly air raid shelters. Anyone fancy a look?

Windmill Cutting **/***
(SJ286863)

Loads of rock but might need a clean and a dry summer (and agent orange). Also very public as the road gets quite busy. Might not be realistic. Can be used as a scramble in various places to get access to the upper sandstone ridge.

Private Gardens ***/*
(SJ295895)

Access is private to a number of residencies, however, the quarry continues into the open parkland adjacent...

Tollemache **
(SJ295895)

Public access from open parkland. Quite public. The rock is partially covered in vegetation and it appears minutely bedded, with quite a lot of loose rock waiting to pop out. This is probably due to it being close to the upper sandstone layer which is often of poor quality.

Thermopylae Steps (The 'Mops') **/***
Noctorum
(SJ285887)

One, possibly two venues here, on low (2-3m) walls with some sit down starts and traverses possible. There is also a stone block bridge here which could provide further challenge.

***

The Arno
Oxton

(Click here for a map)

Full details are being recorded in a subsection of this page.

It is quite surprising why no-one has yet recorded any routes here... on the face of it, it looks quite good, with both lower traverses and some highballs. It is in parkland but all of the climbing is now accessible as the ground has now been cleared of all but nettles, ground elder and knot weed by the council.

The rock is massively bedded and has few fractures, fault lines or deeply weathered bedding planes. The sandstone is consequently relatively hard in nature. The East facing rock, which is quite a bit taller than the rest, appears to be redder (more iron?) and appears to be less compact and may be looser. This may be a result of the local pyro's though...

There has been small rockfall in the last week, the obvious loose rock shown in the photo in the dedicated Arno section, though this was not due to the action of climbers- the rock was just waiting to fall as it was obviously very loose. This is surely a good argument for keeping all of these faces cleaned of vegetation to eliminate biotic weathering, especially close to access roads, abutment walls, parkland or whatever. Climbers could provide this service to councils for free...

Just go and see for yourself.

***

Sunlight Cuttings
Bromborough

(Click here for a map)

See the entry above- i.e. loads of clean rock so why has no-one climbed here. It's beyond me. Ah yes, no guide! Of course.

Whilst this venue may not be perfectly clean, there is public access from Thermal Road, Magazine Road, or Magazine Lane. It is possible to park almost anywhere here, and you will probably not be disturbed by Council wardens. Seems to be the ideal venue to develop some traverses and problems, with some targeted pruning and weeding.

The crag comprises a cutting for an old railway that used to service Port Sunlight factories by providing a rail link with a small dock system on the South bank of the Mersey.

The driest rock faces south and even though it is well sheltered, it receives sunlight for most of the day, depending on shade from light deciduous woodland.

The crag is about 600m long and reaches about 7-8m at its highest. Many of the tops will require some brushing and light excavation, but apart from a few recalcitrant saplings, rhododendrons, and brambles, the rock is mostly clean and bracken and lichen is removed easily. There is a very small amount of loose rock although the tops may, as elsewhere in this Permo Triassic (?) sandstone, be more heavily weathered, more finely bedded and hence more friable.

***

Burton Point

There are a few areas here which might be worth investigating, although it is within the RSPB reserve area and also the ground can be quite marshy being, as it is, on the side of a marsh.

Grange Hill
West Kirby
(SJ220871)

Click Here for the Wiki Page

Short problems 2.5-4m in height, on a steep wall. Part of the base has now been excavated and the landings are now flat and the routes are higher.

Approach:The crag is the largest shadow on the aerial photo, on the map it is just above the 'M' of 'War Meml'. Parking is easiest on Lang Lane, then head for a tree that's relatively obvious, sticking out of the bracken on it's own, although you'll only be able to see the crown.

The crag is a quarry, and is therefore below the level of the ground around it. It's a really good little spot and worth spending a bit of time locating it.

Click Here for the map

(see also UKC site)

***

The Secret Garden
West Kirby
(SJ220871)

***

Tranmere

There are a number of outcrops and quarried faces in Tranmere- it stands to reason when you consider the overall topography of the area.

Queen St
by Green Lane Station

(SJ324877 and SJ324878)

The best faces are currently just above Green Lane station at the back of two industrial parks, close to the junction of Holborn Hill and Queen Street, and are probably 15-20m high and would require extensive work to make them climbable. There is a really good view of these on Multimap. See locations 1 and 2 on the OS map below. Perhaps someone will buy them and donate them to the BMC one day!

Other than that there are a couple of other venues, one just round the corner from the units and one in Tranmere Park (not really Tranmere Park, but close-ish to it! It must have a local name for local people?).

Tranmere

Micro-Park(?)

(SJ322879)

Some good quarried rock here, quite high in places and walls about twenty feet high. Starts would require trampling flower beds which may not be wise. Very public. Definitely worth a look but maybe only for the brave or early bird? See location 4 on the map below.

Tranmere
Nano-Park(?)

(SJ324876)

A very small piece of rock on it's own but given that there seems to be so much rock around here, perhaps it could be incorporated into a circuit? See location 3 on the map below.

***

Red Rocks, Hilbre Point
(Click the grid ref for a map SJ202882)

An ideal venue for young or very young climbers. Boulder problems up to 2-3m in height with beach landings. Shelter can be found from most wind directions. Tidal.

I have spent a couple of hours with a 7 yr old and an 11 yr old developing technique and general climbing skills, though this may not be high enough to have meaning for the risk-seeking. Holds can be sandy so take a soft brush.

***

Mudhouse Lane
Burton

(Click the Grid Ref for a Map SJ327748)

A small quarry situated in private woodlands- located on the far side of the wall from the number 48 on the map to the right). There was some seepage on the day of the visit, although there was also plenty of rock, some of it clean. A visit on a dry day with a few soft brushes may reveal a cracking new venue. Some potential here, though access is unknown.

**/***

Kingsway Tunnel Entrance
Wallasey

(Click the Grid Ref for a Map SJ300912)

Just how desperate are you? Well, see that lovely looking bit of rock on the left? It extends along the cutting above the tunnel approach and also around the corner to the left in a large 'L' shape. This could, in theory, be accessed by hopping over the fence off Mill Road and then tresspassing along the bank between the dual carriageway and the houses (i.e. towards the camera). Alternatively, traverse in from the left, above Weatherhead school, squeeze through the gap in the fence and bash your way through the woods.

The rock looks clean but it's mostly covered in ivy. It does actually look to be of really, really good quality hard sandstone, especially above the road, although spying routes whilst driving is not to be recommended. Someone has recently cleaned/gardened here but it looks as if the overhanging trees are providing shade for lichen and ivy to establish themselves- plus the place is full of garden rubbish and other crap from the Dirty B##tards who live above.

Lennox Lane
Bidston

(Click the Grid Ref for a map SJ284904)

On private land (field), barely a sandstone "stable", and probably not worth bothering with. Some desperado could probably eke out a couple of roof problems here, no doubt.

A small site with tiny potential.

The Noses
New Brighton

(Click here for a map)

These have been mentioned in previous discussions. The rock is soft and only about 2m high at most. In its favour, it is natural rock and therefore has steep bulges, mini-roofs and rounded holds. This could be quite a pleasant venue on quite summer evening.

Shotwick
(SJ349728)

Quite an unlikely looking venue although there is rock there! The crag is under the P of the large letters CP in the centre of the Map. It is a short walk from Shotwick Lane.

The Upturned vehicle in the picture below gives an ideal of scale

New Ferry

Click here for a map

Shallow water soloing at it's best (!). Can get very muddy here, maybe a recce in a boat would provide further info. I might leave this one to the summer though!

New Brighton Fort
(SJ309944)

This sea-cliff may offer some excellent slabby long traverses, although whether the owners would concur is another matter. Awaiting a first ascent (although I am reliably informed that one local outdoor shop worker has taken her daughter climbing there!).

Tidal (...er... duh!).

Barnston Gorge
Barnston

(Click here for a map)

There may not be any outcrops marked on the map here, but a walk down the gorge will reveal a number of little outcrops. Some of them may be incorporated into back gardens, some may not.

**/*

Dibbinsdale and Spital/St Patrick's Well
Bromborough

(Click here for a Map)

A number of natural outcrops but mostly sopping wet and the tops are overgrown and unconscionable. The map shows very little in the way of outcrops, apart from here and just across the B road from this point. These were found by looking for outcrops, then for areas where contour lines touched or were very close together, or where roads had 'Quarry', 'Rock' or some other such word in their names. The other method is just to go and have a wonder... there are other outcrops in this area, rather like Boundary Road but the roads are much busier and the rock is extremely soft.

*/**

New Brighton Quarry
New Brighton

(Click here for a map)

This lies between St Peter and Paul's church and the reservoir, at the back of Gorsehill park. Upon entering the park go through the undergrowth at the far end and the quarry face drops away into a private garden.

The quarry varies between nine and twelve metres in height, and is about 30m long. The rock looks clean and compact. Unfortunately the quarry is privately owned and is being used as a private garden for a house off Hamilton Road- the old quarry access is obvious as a narrow drive leading up from Hamilton Road.

Heswall Quarries

(Click here for a zoomable map)

The quarries can be seen on the OS map as the darker line either side of the main road (red).

Located on Quarry Road (Believe it or not!) the crags are now a delightful feature in various back gardens of a sheltered housing scheme, and a housing estate. Such a shame...

Landican

(Click SJ353282 for a zoomable map)

This is a good one... (ahem!) a quarry in a field that has been filled in by various forms of detritus, but there is about six feet of variable rock surrounding a stagnant pool of water. It is actually possible to climb here, just.

Just how desperate are you?

Haddon Wood Quarry

(Click here for a zoomable map)

Might be worth a look. There is a crag marked on the 1:25000.

UPDATE (04/09) Well, there is a crag, but it's in a wood with "Private- Shooting" notices all over the place and it consists of small broken outcrops of a few feet high; probably been filled in at some stage.

Storeton Woods

Click the Grid Refs for Maps
SJ313849 and SJ314842

These quarries have been filled in and very little rock is left exposed. Records suggest that there may have been quarry faces up to 60m (!) (200ft) high here although before you all go rushing up there with shovels and pick axes, hoping to uncover the new Uber Pex, it might be worth remembering that the 'records' are from Wikipedia and, frankly, I don't believe a word of it! Also, the quarries were filled in with Queensway tunnel spoil so that's an awful lot of digging, even for the 'West Kirby Mole'.

"Most of the village is built from locally quarried stone from Storeton Ridge. The stone is a creamy sandstone and was use to clad the Empire State Building in New York. Stone from the quarry has been used in many other buildings and constructions, including Birkenhead Town Hall and Sankey Viaduct in Cheshire. . The quarry was also the site of the discovery of dinosaur footprints, the species was named Chirotherium Storetonese after the site of discovery. Examples of these footprints can be seen in World Museum Liverpool in Liverpool and the Williamson Art Gallery in Birkenhead, and also in Christ church, Kings Road, Bebington. The site is currently a tranquil nature reserve enjoyed by walkers."

You'd be far better advised saving your pennies to buy the quarries behind Green Lane station.

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Storeton#Storeton_Quarries_and_Tramway)
Storeton Quarrying- Some impressive pictures here...

Poulton Hall

(Click here for a map)

This venue looked promising from the OS map as it has a number of contours very close together indicating very steep, or vertical, faces. On a slow drive-by there wasn't much to see... well nothing at all, just sloping soil... so no doubt Mick Fowler will be making a visit shortly!

However, an inspection at a more leisurely pace in and around this area may reveal a hidden gem...

New Brighton Sea Wall

(Click here for a map)

There have been rumours about either exploiting ready-made holes in the concrete, or bolting on holds to the wall. The argument in favour of developing this may need to be stronger.

Lower Bebington Church
Bebington

(Click here for a map)

Despite there being a squiggly bit on the OS map, just to the East of the church symbol, there's not much on the ground, other than a slight change in levels. Have a look on Multimap as the resolution appears to be really good and the church is quite special in terms of it's place in history and architecture.

Photographs

gd303uk — Thu, 13 May 2010 05:25:35 CDT

6a Granny traverse	6a Granny Traverse- "Where are my feet?"
6a Granny Traverse	6a Who Wall
5b Arete. Who Wall	5b Arete. Who Wall
Piss Before Bedtime (see note below)	Big Prawn (A tribute to the Granny Graffito- actually I think it's Big Prawn 'Gun'- ahem!)
Piss Before Bedtime (This may have been done before and given another name)	A Big Dyno. Rumoured to be the Haston Dyno, but more likely to be Pilli Winks

Links

silveryfox — Mon, 03 May 2010 09:59:32 CDT

Cheshire Climbing Wiki (Including Frogsmouth) http://cheshireclimbing.wetpaint.com/

Link to a discussion about this most exalted of all climbing venues. Includes the mythical or legendary "Haston Dyno". Does it exist, or is it just Pilli Winks?

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4697.60.html

And don't forget the video.

The 'Big Daddy' Dyno http://youtube.com/watch?v=mU83-uCosfA

The Arno

silveryfox — Tue, 27 Apr 2010 16:33:12 CDT

Another great little short bouldering venue. Many of the routes are no more than 4m high, although some are double this and would require good spotting. The topo is being developed day by day (as of April 27th 2010) and can be downloaded from the attachment section at the bottom of this page.

...watch this space

...But also check The Friends of The Arno site for history, background, and the possibility of participating in a larger group with similar interests.

This is what it looked like last year (April 2009)...

This is what it looks like now...

The section in the photo on the right has recently collapsed although this does not come as a surprise. The obvious culprit is biotic weathering- evidenced by the roots and tree stumps. Any further climbing at this site will probably improve the situation and help to keep the faces free of vegetation, which will help to reduce the damage to the rock face and the access roads, gardens, walls, and parkland.

Guide

silveryfox — Tue, 27 Apr 2010 10:23:47 CDT

This list below was based on Cameron Duff and Chadwick (1998) so it's probably out of date! In particular the grades will need checking. Feel free to add new routes, or comment on existing ones.

Adding New Routes

The attachments at the bottom of the page have no routes marked- they have been attached for you to mark the routes and then re-submit. The files are Word 97 or later and should be fully editable by Mac or PC. They are in two parts...

Part 1- Bluebell to Eagle Rock (Who Wall)
Part 2- Overhanging Wall to Granny

Part 1 includes a vector graphic for you to mark the routes with, and red numbered dots that can be used to cross reference with the names and descriptions. Cut (Ctrl C) and Paste (ctrl V) or Duplicate (Ctrl D) as you see fit. These are located under the first photo in the file ".... Part 1".

Please leave the formatting and retain as much of the style as possible.

This has been combined with the previous guide to produce two A4 sides which can be printed off double-sided and slipped into the pocket. It has been included below as an attachment.

Bluebell Wall

1 Hairy Mary 5a *
Up and over the bulge. A little scary.

2 5a *
Obvious crack.

3 5c *
From two small pockets to nice deep bi-doigts followed by long reaches and poor footholds to the top.

4 5a

5 5b **
Large 'sad looking' Hueco to crimpy break followed by a long move to the top break.

6 The Vibrato 5c
Two monos (one inside a pocket) lead to crimpy moves and a gripping reach to finish.

7 5b

8 6a *
Starting with your left hand in the pocket gain a flake via some awesome moves, then climb direct, avoiding the ledges.

9 6b+
Use the small mono next to the V slot then make crimpy, reachy moves up the wall.

10 Lightning Crack 6a ***
Faint lightning crack, technical and gripping.

11 5c

12 Armlock Crack 5c+ *
The crack has a powerful start.

13 5b **
The diagonal shotholes. A brilliant problem with two unique 'cement' holds!

14 6a *
Start on the big undercut climb directly passing two pockets and a letterbox slot on the way.

15 The Eyes 6a
From the large pocket reach through to the 'eyes' above.

16 The Star Route 5c
Undercut the big pocket to the right.

17 Ant Crack 6a **
The crack; doesn't look much, does it?

18 5b
Up to the rickety tree root; use it as a way down.

Traverses
There are three traverses across the wall.

The Bluebell Traverse 6b (V5) ***
The traverse across the centre of the wall from route 1 to 18 (and back?)is superb.

The Top Break 5c(V??).

The Super Low Traverse 6c(V8)
This uses the footholds of The Bluebell Traverse for hands.

Granny Rock

The obvious isolated pinnacle and the first rock to dry out. Many problems and eliminates exist on the steeper side mainly on crimps, and sloping pockets.

1 4b Easy sloping pockets near left arete.
2 5a/5c Use the crimp (easy) or the sandy pocket (hard).
3 5b ** Direct through big ledges.
4 5c * Use 2 crimps in the diagonal, then the angled pocket to a big ledge. Good moves follow to the next break.
5 5c From big diagonal ledges ascend direct.
6 6b+ * Undercut a 2 finger pocket to reach break, then finish tenuously.
7 Phil's Route 6b ** (V5)
Reach to a 2 finger crimp with right hand and pull!
8 Right Arete 4c/5a
The name speaks for itself.
9 5a* The wall right of the arete has a scary landing.

Many variations exist on the front and sides of the Granny.

Granny Traverses
The following intensely sequency traverses are possible. Do all four without touching the ground for a monster pump! No tick until they've been done both ways-L to R and R to L!

1 High Traverse 5b ** (V1)
The obvious horizontal break at 10 feet and harder than it looks.

2 Low Traverse 6a *** (V3)
The right to left rising traverse line, used for training before the first ascent of Positron, Gogarth. Just using the crack is a little bit harder but still 6a- watch those shoulders!

3 Ground Level Traverse 6b (V6)
Ground level from L to R under diagonal break to join 2 at the large diagonal slopers.

4 Greg's Traverse 7a (V8)
Right to left under the original traverse without using any holds in the diagonal break. Imaginary!

Bouldering on the Granny Rock
Brilliant! Fabulous crimping and super-technical sequences will have you working on your data-base of excuses. Some excellent traverses and even some pointless dyno-type problems for those with no attention span. These need reading in conjunction with the diagram from the last guide, to see which holds are being referred to.

1 5b V1 Layback left arete without using the pockets or ledges.
2 6bV5 (10)11,12,3,top.
3 6b+ V6 (12,13) top.
4 6aV3 (17) 52, 29, top.
5 5cV2 (15,14) 19,21,26,24,top.
6 6bV5 (15)13,19,2,top.
7 6bV5 (16,17)32,29,41,break.
8 Brundlefly (17,38) 29,26,24, break.
9 Old Shep 6b V5 (38) 17, 33, 29, 26, 24, break.
10 6b V5 (38) 17, 35, 29, 26, 24, break.
11 6b V5 (38) 36, 29, 26, 24, break.
12 6a V3 (36,37) 38, 40, 41, break.
13 5c V2 (36) 35, 29, 26, 24, break.
14 6a V2 (48) 44, traverse off.
15 Phil's Route 6b V4 (48, 51) 47, 44, any holds to the top. The pocket is VERY small and used to be even smaller!
16 6a+ V4 (37) 43, top
17 7a V10 (53,54) 3, 2, 25.
18 6b V4 (33,34) 39, traverse right to arete and up.
19 6c V8 (38) 35, 23, 25, Top.

Who Wall

(aka Eagle Rock)

Named after the graffiti which once adorned it. A good place for Breck virgins and an excellent place to do a warm up before cranking on the Bluebell, Granny or Overhanging Wall.

1 Left arete 4c
(sitting start also possible from left for a better warm up).

2 5a
Wall above big pocket.

3 4c
Right trending overlap.

4 Central Wall 6a **
Small pockets.

5 Floating Rib 4b
Blunt rib on jugs.

6 Mossy Wall 6a/b **
Tiny holds and committing- give the top a good clean before you find out that you can't reverse the top moves- scary!

7 Right Arete 5a
Hard start then jugs.

8 Main Wall 4b *
The steep wall just right of the arete, without using the arete.

9 Boiler plate slab 5c *.
The wall between the steep wall

9a The Green Streaks ??
An eliminate between Boiler Plate Slab and the corner. No bridging allowed.

10 Senapod Corner 3
The obvious corner.

11 Hepatitis B ??
12 Bumblebee ??

The High Traverse across Boiler Plate Slab (routes 10 to 7) is 5b whereas The Low Traverse is 5c. A Super Low Traverse of the Who Wall, with hands below the horizontal crack from Left Arete to Right Arete, is a balancy and technical 5b.

Overhanging Wall

The largest wall at The Breck. The lower-off boltshave been used recently but may need backing up. All the routes are very hard so don't get disillusioned if you can't do them- after all, it's awesome not Awesome.
1 Tom's Route 6b
2 Fighting Tans 6b
3 Woman's Weekly 6b
4 In The Jungle 6b *
Follow right-trending ledge system to join left-trending crackline at the top.
5 Overhanging Wall Direct 6c
From the Fireplace reach to a slanting ledge. Flakes out left lead to two large pockets and an awesome final move on crimps. (Al Rouse's top-rope problem)
6 Pilli Winks 7a (F8a)
Shoddy holds lead up to a ledge from which a powerful slap off a flake gains a diagonal line of crimps leading to the top. Probably awaiting a second ascent.
Haston's Dyno V10
Starts at the alcove ("fireplace") in the centre of the overhanging wall and moves up to two obvious flat holds in the diagonal break before flying direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot. First done as a top rope problem by Stevie Haston.
7 In The Jungle Direct 6c (F7b+) **
Use the kidney shaped pocket to gain the ledge, jump to the jugs then make a powerful mono move to the top. The best route on Merseyside- according to one local!
8 Greasy Cobweb Crack 5c
Gnarly thin moves to ledges, oddly unlike crack climbing.
9 Flash In The Pan 6b
The wall right of the crack is grotty and fragile.
10 Unknown 5c
The wall further right, joining 9 at the overlap.

Traverses
The Breakfast Line is the low level traverse from 1 to 4, a sustained 7a.

New Developments- The Clean up

silveryfox — Tue, 27 Apr 2010 04:41:56 CDT

The issues were:
The routes are dirty due to lack of traffic. Getting much better but need traffic to stay clean.
Some routes are affected by vegetation. Getting much better but need traffic to stay clean.
It can sometimes be tedious when the local young people decide to hold a 'sit off' there- noise, alcohol, litter, fires, theft- all minor issues and avoidable but more of a problem when you're on your own.
The routes on the Overhanging Wall- (Why not bolt these to encourage visitors? see 'Comments' below).

So, how to resolve the problems? The answer, I think, is to get more people there. Indeed, I've hardly ever seen anyone else there that I haven't already arranged to meet although things have recently changed.

How to get more people there? How about these ideas. Please add to these...

"Are you a cleaner?"

The Great Clean Up

Take one carrier bag of rubbish home with you on every visit.	Ongoing
Prune the trees and bushes affecting the Overhanging Wall	Done summer/autumn 07 More done during the week preceding 4/6/08 Ongoing
Ask the young people to take litter home with them. If no, ask them to bag it up and leave it there. If no, just ask them to leave it in a pile when they've finished their barby rather than throwing it off the crag. What harm can it do and it might just shame them into taking it away, or just get them to think about it?	...er not brave enough, and not seen anyone down there for a while. Done 3/6/08- asked two parties... favourbale response from both.
Write to the Managers of the local supermarkets and shops that are supplying the goods (I know which ones because the youngsters often leave receipts as well as the litter) and tell them about the issues.
Write to the council and ask them what they are doing about the illegal drinking and fire starting.
Ask the council to instigate a local alcohol ban on the area.	No chance at moment though council are apparently pushing for a total ban on the whole area! Apparently. (May 07) 4/6/08 And now there appears to be national political will to effect this ban though how this will play out in semi-secluded areas like the Breck, who knows.
Involve the youth service.
Consult with local residents about any issues that affect them and gain their support in managing the youth "problem".
Replace the lower offs and properly equip the Overhanging Wall with new bolts.	May not be needed. Top rope bolts were extensively used by recent TRs at the OH wall (oh, and this occurred without bolt failure!!!!)
Rake up the broken glass from under the Granny.	Done, as far as possible. Sept 07
Remove rocks and stones from under the Who Wall and OH Wall.	Ongoing It's compulsory to throw at least two rocks into the nettles per visit!!!!!
Install signs on approaches warning about CCTV surveillance.
Strim areas around Bluebell, Granny and Who (to get rid of nettles and to enable rapid ******* detection)	Done May 08
Contact the Ranger service and liaise regarding removal of dumped garden waste at foot of bluebell.
Log Residents Dumping	5th-9th May 2008 Garden waste dumped into the park by occupant of second house from left as you look at bluebell wall. Evidence of other fly tippers along this wall and under the o/h wall.
When you find dumped rubbish bags, examine it for addresses on envelopes/receipts, and post details of the bag contents (along with photos) on this wiki. We can then use the evidence to prosecute.	Ongoing
"Prune" trees around Overhanging wall, and Bluebell wall to remove shade which prevents it from drying out and encourages mosses and Lichens.	Some work carried out week prior to 4/6/08. A little more would still be beneficial
Clean (brush) Routes on Overhanging Wall- abseil
Clean (Brush) routes on Who Wall- abseil	Begun May 08. Ongoing. Possible, now, to clean these on ground up ascents.
Contact ranger service and set up a "Friends of the Breck" group with a view to conducting ongoing maintenance.	Done 12th June 2007 Seems like an awful lot of red tape and may not be realistic. However Local council has recently stimmed the entire area beneath bluebell wall so perhaps they have been shamed into action.
Take a stiff yard brush to clear the glass around granny rock	It'll probably be a bit more effective than raking alone?

Purchase mallions and 10mm static to set up belays to the top of the OH wall.

Purchase mallions and 10mm static to set up belays to the top of the OH wall.

Clean up/garden easier routes on OH to allow access to belay stations.

Clean up/garden easier routes on OH to allow access to belay stations.

Pre Spring Clean Photos - Spring 2010:-

Pre Spring Clean Photos - 2010

History

silveryfox — Sat, 24 Apr 2010 10:33:35 CDT

For the historical context, and to set the record straight, Merseyside sandstone had provided a few problems up to V5 pre 1974, which were mainly the work of Rouse, Boyson, Potts, Pearce et al.

Alan Rouse began climbing at the age of 16 in 1968, the year of the foot and mouth epidemic. The Breck was close to his home in Wallasey and it was here that he developed his fierce finger strength and mastery of face climbing, a style at which he excelled. Clad in a pair of “Masters” acquired from Brigham’s in Liverpool, the following year saw Rouse concentrate on developing the bouldering at The Breck. Typically, he would often work away on a new problem in secret before demonstrating his new party piece. His school friend and climbing partner Nick Parry recalls two highly significant new problems done by Rouse in 1968/9:
“Over several months he managed to put together the girdle of Bluebell Wall, a continuous series of 5c moves, and made the first continuous traverse that summer."
That’s “Breck 5c” or 6a/b in real money, of course. Rouse’s application of the grading system was famously harsh. Probably V5, 6a/b when first climbed, the traverse has shed a few holds since Rouse first did it and now rates V7, 6b/c.
Parry again:
"Also that summer, I held the rope while Al completed a route up the centre of the overhanging wall at the back of the Breck. As far as I remember, it was during this spell that Alan first top roped Beatnik (6a) at Helsby, which he was later to solo in 1971.” Rouse also did the classic traverse of the back face of the Granny Rock, allegedly as training for Positron, and, in the company of Pete Minks, Brian Molyneux and others, added many of the now classic problems on Bluebell Wall and the Who Buttress (named Eagle Rock by the local youths).

Under the guise of "Breck 6a" (or Brit 6b, with isolated Brit 6c moves in real money!), V5/V6 problems were starting to appear at the Breck in the mid-to-late 70s, courtesy of Mark Whitfield (who abseiled down the Beatnik and made plasticene moulds of the crucial holds, which he then mounted on a board in his parent’s garage, before soloing the route!), Leigh Mc Ginley, Tim Carruthers, Tom Jones, Roger Hughes and - a short while later - Paul Bolger, Phil Davidson, Keith Jones and Mike Collins, or "Breck Mike" as he was known. Collins made several hard additions with the Super-Low Traverse of Bluebell Wall (feet below the bulge, hands on the original Bluebell Traverse footholds) V8, 6c most notable amongst them. Both Jerry Moffat and Stefan Glowacz visited and left suitably impressed.

Steve Haston also visited the Breck, in 1979, and upped the ante with a legendary dyno that is still reckoned to be at least Font 7c+/V10), or "harder than V10s at Hueco" according to Haston. The legendary dyno in question is not an eliminate. It starts to the right of the alcove ("fireplace") in the centre of the overhanging wall and moves up to two obvious flat holds in the diagonal break. Repeat ascentionists have flown direct from these to the obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot (V10), while Haston's original method used a "proto nick" for the right hand to assist take-off. This was first done as a top rope problem by Haston in 1980 in a single session and repeated shortly afterwards by Keith Jones. Mike Collins also made some progress on the problem using an intermediate hold for the left hand but it is not known if he ever completed it using this method. This very highball highball was top roped and then soloed (no mats!) by Alan ("Yag") Mc Sherry in the early 1990s and in 2008 by Mick Adams, who adopted a less heart-stopping and more modernist highball-with-pads approach.

In the mid 1980s the "old guard" moved on to pastures new and the torch was handed to Greg Griffiths and Alan "Yag" Mc Sherry, both of whom made V10 eliminate additions to the Breck, including Greg's super low traverse of the Granny Rock (V10) and a wickedly hard problem based around the vague "lightning cracks", which bisect the crux section of the Bluebell traverse and also weighs in at V9/10.

Brundlefly is another hard dyno dating from this period, this time on the Granny Rock. It starts with the right hand in the big pocket and left hand in the square chip as per the normal problem up the middle and goes straight to the good small ledge above the rising diagonal traverse line.

- Tim Carruthers

Grange Hill

silveryfox — Sat, 24 Apr 2010 10:27:04 CDT

West Kirby (SJ220871)

Grange Hill has received a major clean by local activists and is now between two and four metres in height for most of its length. Sit-down starts can be added to most routes for added difficulty. Several traverses are also possible but are yet to be completed and recorded.

There are various short problems, 2-4m in height, on a steep wall. Part of the base has now been excavated and the landings are now flat and the routes are higher.

Approach: The crag is the largest shadow on the aerial photo, on the map it is just above the 'M' of 'War Meml'. Parking is easiest on Lang Lane, then head for a tree that's relatively obvious, sticking out of the bracken on it's own, although you'll only be able to see the crown.

The crag is a quarry, and is therefore below the level of the ground around it. It's a really good little spot and worth spending a bit of time locating it.

(see also UKC site http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8849)

A completely new crag has been opened up by locals, and is situated just south east of the war memorial, The Secret Garden. This short and slabby wall of clean and compact sandstone is ideal for young climbers, with numerous eliminates and traverses possible. Ideal for beginners and intermediate climbers.

TOPO INCLUDED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE UNDER ATTACHMENTS

"Remember, keep 7 points of contact at all times."	"I'm Lichen this..."

"Remember, keep 7 points of contact at all times."

"I'm Lichen this..."

Thor's Stone

silveryfox — Sat, 17 Apr 2010 10:06:49 CDT

Thurstaston (SJ244849)

Seems like an obvious place to climb judging by all the chipped pockets, buckets etc. Rock defacement has been a regional sport for a very long time here however, this very fact may mean that modern climbing may stand a chance of being welcomed here as many people tend to make their way onto the top of the rock to carve their names, at some point during their walk in these woods.

The rock is Permo-Triassic Sandstone or New Red Sandstone and was laid down in a desert environment, possibly comprising fossilised sand dune systems approximately 250-280 million years ago. The shapes carved into the sandstone Tor, rather than being the result of chipping and carving by human visitors, may be glacial features such as Nye Channels, scallops, plunge pools and striations (Glasser and Hambrey, 1998). The features would have formed during the Late Devensian when melting and thinning ice marked the end of the last period of glaciation in North West England, about 20,000 yrs ago. Glacial meltwater found its way down through the thinning glacier (approximately 30m), forming larger channels (moulins or cravasses) and eventually created a linked waterfall and cavern system, of which Thor's Stone would have been a part. It has been suggested that the large summit basin is a plunge pool and was hence carved by the action of descending meltwater, which then created and enlarged drainage channels in the rock; all of this occurred in a sub-glacial envionment. Nye channels are rare in Britain and it is thought that these sub-glacial meltwater erosion features are unique in lowland Britain.

There are various short problems, up to 7-8m in height, on natural and semi-carved soft sandstone. Trees have recently been removed from the steep side opening this area up for some very light cleaning/brushing. There is, bizarrely enough, some seepage in places, though once the lichen and soil is removed, this should dry very quickly.

Click Here for an aerial view.

Parking is easiest at the end of School Lane, which is the road coming off the yellow 'B' road. Once parked, head rightwards, following the track. Thor's Stone should be fairly obvious after 200m.

The crag is natural sandstone and as such is quite unusual for it to be still around because it is very soft! Although some of the rock will be dirty, use only soft brushes please.

TOPO INCLUDED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE UNDER ATTACHMENTS

Other Climbing Venues in Cheshire

silveryfox — Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:28:53 CDT

Moving South from Wirral in to Cheshire, a scan of the OS maps reveals a number of venues, some of which are unknown to UKC or anyone else it seems... I have been quite lazy so these may well be in other guides etc. If anyone knows anything about these venues, or can go and have a scout out and then paste info here, that would be very helpful.

Crag Rating System
***	Some good quality rock; some brushing/gardening may be required. GO CLIMB IT NOW!!!
**	Some variable quality rock; may need a lot of cleaning or imagination to realise the potential; in need of a very keen and desperate local activist; if it was Dahn Sarf it'd be covered in routes.
*	Ummm, well, there's rock here but unrealistic for climbing (e.g. Too small; too loose; too soft; no access; filled-in quarry; continually seeps etc).
	Ideal for young climbers; short or very short climbs or problems; easy or very easy climbing; good landings; easy access.
	B-i-g problems or nasty landings and high levels of objective danger.
	Small problems/routes with mostly sitting starts
X	No rock - I've saved you the bother of going there yourself.
Note: Inclusion of a crag on this list does not imply that a right of access exists. Some of these are on public land but some are not. Many are in urban areas. Climbing on some of these outcrops will probably attract unwanted attention, for example from an RSSPB Nazi who patrols the tops of Burton Point cliffs, screaming at anyone who comes within fifty metres of the rock, and in the process scaring the birds away!

Weston Heath Coppice (Click here for a map 558278) I smell crag. Anyone have any info or would like to check this out?	?
Hawkstone Park (Click here for a map ) And this...?	?
Bickerton Hill (Click here for a map ) Surely there's something here.. footpaths too?	?
Hawarden Park (Click here for a map ) What about this?	?

Bidston

silveryfox — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 03:32:30 CDT

A place of great contrasts and not without some interesting industrial archaeology. Click the video link for some music.

The Breck

silveryfox — Sun, 04 Apr 2010 02:33:28 CDT

Welcome to The Breck Wiki

The Breck really is the ultimate urban adventure- brilliantly technical face climbing on steep slabs, vertical faces and slightly overhanging walls- located in parkland that has great views over the Wirral, the Dee estuary and North Wales. The climbing includes micro-routes or boulder problems, technical traverses up to 20 metres long but only two metres from a soft grassy landing, and highball boulder problems protectable with top ropes or the ubiquitous climbers' lilos. Despite the urban setting, the flowering heathland, the ripening blackberries and the sparrowhawks remind those receptive that the distinction between nature and unnature is merely social construction. It is easy to forget that the crag is only minutes away from Birkenhead and Liverpool although the local youths often do their best to keep the romantic's feet firmly in the present- a brilliant postmodern scenario.

Follow this link for footage of recent attempts at one hard route... http://youtube.com/watch?v=mU83-uCosfA.

Thankfully, The Breck is undergoing something of a resurgence partially as a result of the work done during the wet summer of 2007, and also due to the looming new Sandstone guide. In the meantime this resource has been set up in order to address the issues described in New Developments, and to encourage people to visit and share in the delights of one of the most consistently technically demanding outside climbing venues the area!

PLEA PLEA PLEA PLEA PLEA

There's a lot of discussion going on elsewhere (see links) and there is a danger that the information this contains could be lost- so please will anyone with further information have a good look at the guide and keep it updated, or if you can't be bothered, drop me a line (SilveryFox) and we'll try and sort something out.

The view from the approach path to the Granny Rock

Directions

silveryfox — Tue, 20 May 2008 07:52:30 CDT

This page contains attached files with maps (below) which should enable you to find the crag- see below. Alternatively, check it out with UK Climbing's directions.

But you may also find the following useful...

Approach.

The crags lie above Breck Road near the 'village' of Wallasey on the B5145. When approaching from Liverpool turn right (2nd exit off the roundabout) on leaving the Wallasey tunnel (heading for New Brighton A5047) and turn left at the first set of lights on to Poulton Road. Continue over the motorway and the crag lies behind the Ship Inn on the right. The quarry is not visible from the road but lies just to the right and above the pub. Approach by an obvious path or drive around the back and enter via Milthwaite Road.

Older Guides (Rouse, 1976)

silveryfox — Wed, 20 Jun 2007 09:39:24 CDT

This page is availabale as a Word file in the 'attachments section' at the bottom of this page.

A Climber’s Guide to Helsby and The Wirral

Alan Rouse

Cicerone Press

1976

INTRODUCTION

The region covered by this guidebook is that part of Cheshire within easy striking distance of Merseyside. The three fine buttresses of Helsby Crags form the centrepiece although the other outcrops provide excellent evening enjoyment for locals. Helsby has everything; corners abundant with holds, terrifyingly smooth slabs or jamming cracks and exposed overhangs. Frodsham crags give excellent holds on excellent rock situated at a ridiculous angle beyond the vertical. The Breck provides finger climbing on short vertical walls as does Pexhill. Top roping is an accepted technique on many of the longer and harder routes, particularly at Helsby. The general lack of suitable protection and the occasionally unreliable nature of the rock combine to ensure that prospective leaders confine their attentions to routes well within their capabilities. Those who are well accustomed to sandstone climbing may derive great pleasure from soloing, which provides a healthy counterbalance to top-roping activities. Success on most of the harder climbs will only come through an application of brute strength and a certain kind of cunning elegance. There are routes of all standards suitable for anyone from the complete novice to the expert. The present guide writer would like to acknowledge the great debt which he owes to previous authors of guides to the region. Their work has provided a firm base for the present volume. Virtually all the climbs have been checked personally and the guide has thus been largely rewritten to provide the climber with an up-to-date summary of the choice of routes which confronts him. The descriptions are rather briefer than those in the previous guide. Whilst this has undoubtedly reduced the interest value, it is hoped that the climber will agree that the shortening and consequent reduction in cost is a useful economy. The writer has, however, endeavoured to retain some of the flavour of the original guides which lent so much to the unique atmosphere of the curious routes at Helsby. HISTORY The original exploration of the rocks at Helsby was carried out by J. Laycock. His book "Some Gritstone Climbs", published in 1913, contains accounts of some twenty five climbs at Helsby. The Overhanging Crack was considered at that time to be one of the hardest "gritstone" climbs in England. About 1925 C. W. Marshall became interested in Helsby, and his occasional visits with other members of the Climbers' Club, produced such notable climbs as; Green Chimney, Pigeon Hole Wall, Hades Crack, Wood's Climb and, best of all, his eponymous buttress climb. During 1928 and 1929 the cliff was thoroughly explored by members of the Wayfarers' Club. Twenty three new ciimbs were done, including eleven very severes. Of these, four were led by F.E Hicks, and the rest by C. F. Kirkus. As a result of all these activities, a comprehensive guide was published by A. B. Hargreaves and Kirkus in the Wayfarers' Journal for 1930. During the early 1930's enthusiasts (mainly Kirkus) produced a few more climbs, problems and variations. These were recorded by Frost and Stangle in 1935 in the Mountaineering Journal. In 1946 a new guide was published by H. A. Carsten. Few major routes were worked out at Helsby during the period 1946-1957 but those that were completed are highly significant. The obvious lines of weakness had already fallen and climbers were turning to the blank walls and overhangs which had previously been shunned. During the early 1950's J. Evans made the first complete ascent of the Quarry Buttress, the Coffin, Samson's Wall and Spider Crack. Then Hugh Banner produced Fragile Wall, Twin Scoops, Downe's Doddle and the completion of the Girdle Traverse. In 1957 Banner revised Carsten's Guide and it was found necessary to use the grade 5c on the crag for the first time. During the mild winter of 1957-58 an intensive period of development began. At the same time the Tennis Court Buttress and the Frodsham Buttresses were discovered and developed. The enthusiasts formed themselves into a club, the Helsby Group, under the leadership of Banner, whose more notable routes include The Beetler, the Illegitimate, Gorilla Wall, the Mangler, Crumpet Crack and Calcutta Wall. Prandy produced Eroica, Brush Off and Brandenburg Wall. Jim O'Neill, responsible for much of the development of the Frodsham Buttresses, rounded off a fine series of ascents by climbing the Beatnik on a rope. It is a measure of the thoroughness of the exploration carried out by this group that so few climbs have been added in the last ten years. Many of the obvious variations at Frodsham have been climbed by Lew Brown and Dave Pearce. The Buttresses have become extremely popular with evening climbers. Several climbs have been added at Helsby mainly by local climbers and some of the routes previously unled, like the Beatnik, have since been led. It appears that the green lichen covering much of the rock at Helsby and on the less steep sections of Frodsham has become worse from a climbing point of view. Local climbers have suggested this may be due to the proximity of a fertiliser factory. Certainly when the Buttresses at Helsby are wet and wintry they assume a luminous green colour and look repulsive to climb upon. In fact the conditions are very rarely as bad as appearances might suggest and for the most part the rocks dry quite rapidly after rain. For the future several obvious problems remain at Helsby: Most of them will be hard and some of them cannot be climbed at present climbing standards. It should be noted that pitons have never been employed here and their use should be severely discouraged, as should the chipping of holds. Some unnatural holds have recently appeared on hard climbs and this is an unpleasantly disturbing trend.

GRADINGS

The numerical grading system employed in the previous guide has since become an accepted yardstick by which to classify not only the sandstone climbs for which it was introduced but also the individual pitches on more serious crags. The Crew-Banner Cloggy guidebook marked the successful introduction of the system into Wales. Thus the system will already be familiar to many readers. Apart from a few small but notable departures, the writer has followed this system of numerical grading. 1, 2, 3, 4a, 4b, 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a in ascending order of difficulty. To help those unfamiliar with the numerical system, the more usual adjectival grading has been added to most of the easier climbs at Helsby, but not the harder grades. This is intentional. Most of the routes with a grading higher than 5a may be assumed to be of a high level of technical interest and difficulty. These routes nearly all lie in the H.V.S.-X.S. category and offer difficult and occasionally dangerous leads. It is assumed that the prospective leader will be able to make his own judgement of difficulty based on the technical grade provided. All the routes described have been led except those marked specifically as Not Led, but it must be emphasized that the numerical grading system ignores as far as possible the situation of the climb and the possible danger caused by loose or brittle holds. It is in essence a top-roping grade.

OTHERCRAGS

Within easy reach of Merseyside in the summer evenings are several outcrops, quarries and sandstone walls all useful for bouldering and occasionally providing more serious fare. Despite their diminutive and often scruffy aspects these crags assume a useful role for the local climber. It is proposed to detail the whereabouts of these crags but not to describe them in any great detail.

THE BRECK-WALLASEY

Hidden in the midst of the Merseyside connurbation this outcrop provides a particularly useful bouldering ground. The author learnt to climb here and owes a great debt to these sandstone walls blackened by industrial grime. The rocks provide problems of all standards and conveniently lend themselves to an intensive climbing wall type approach. A rope, for the most part, is hardly necessary. The rocks lie above Breck Road which connects Wallasey Village with the Penny Bridge. An important landmark is the Ship Inn. For those approaching from Liverpool a right turn from the exit of the new Mersey Tunnel leads towards Liscard Village and New Brighton. Turn left at the first set of lights and carry straight on at the next set of lights. Cross over the motorway and carry on for quarter of a mile. The crags are not visible from the road but will be found on the right just before the pub. The most prominent feature is a large isolated pinnacle the "Granny Rock". Opposite this lies the Bluebell Wall and fifty feet away may be found the quarry.

BEESTON CASTLE CRAG

This potentially major outcrop has seen little development mainly because of access problems. The castle and grounds are owned by the Department of the Environment who apparently forbid climbing. No approach has been made in recent years however and perhaps a determined individual will find the Ministry open to persuasion. The crags are interesting to visit providing entertaining speculation as to possible climbs. Some routes have been done and details of them will be found in the Liverpool University Mountaineering Club Journal, 1960-61. Some of the most spectacular sandstone routes in the country could be engineered between the impressive walls and overhangs below the castle itself.

IRBY QUARRY (G.R. 252858)

Situated near the crossroads at lrby Mill Hill. This quarry is quite extensive and reaches a height of fifty feet. The climbs are mainly in the easier grades (up to severe) but several harder, problems can be contrived on the odd pieces of blanker rock. The rock is quite good and the aspect pleasant. The quarry was at one time rented by the Wayfarers Club for the use of its members but there are no access problems at present.

HESWALL QUARRY (G.R. 268819)

A short distance north of Heswall village just right of the main road and near a right turning there is an overgrown hole in the ground. The climbing is quite pleasant on good rock and upwards of twenty problems present themselves to the climber. The access situation is unclear and it would be wise to make enquiries before a visit. Various small outcrops will be found on Thurstaston Hill and Hilbre Island may have some problems although access here is determined not only by prior permission but also by the state of the tide!

MISCELLANEOUS

The present writer has always maintained that climbing of sorts may be found almost everywhere. Bridges and walls abound in Cheshire and many of them offer useful training grounds. It is always important however not to offend local sensibilities by using chalk or by extensive gardening of the ivy from next door’s house for instance. Many walls are made from sandstone and this must have been quarried at one time, thus numerous small quarries will be found by the diligent, assuming they arrive before the council in its wisdom has filled them in.

Top Tips

silveryfox — Fri, 25 May 2007 11:14:25 CDT

Ensure you do a proper warm up and stretch before and after as the climbing is so intense here that it's all too easy to over-train and injure shoulders (rotator cuffs), elbows, wrists and fingers (pully tendons).
Take your time. Whilst it's possible to get a session done in an hour it doesn't really allow long enough for a warm up so get some discipline; particularly if you're decrepit (i.e.over 20!)
Talk to the local youngsters. They're quite sweet when you get to know them.
It's always worth brushing holds (soft brushes only please) and especially pockets before you use them, especially on the Granny and Who Wall.
Take a small handbrush as well as a toothbrush for those important house cleaning jobs.
Take a plastic bag to carry litter and spend a few moments picking the odd thing up each time you visit.
When talking to the local youngsters make sure the thieving little gits don't run off with your bike, sac, car keys, phone, wallet and credit cards before disappearing into the undergrowth like silverfish.